Waves
PPT Slide
Ideal waves
Progressive waves
Progressive wave movement
Sea surface rarely resembles shape of ideal waves
Shapes of water waves
Deep water vs. shallow water waves
Deep water waves
Shallow water waves
Wave generation
Waves at their point of origin
Waves far from their point of origin
Wave refraction
As waves travel to shore
In response to the slowing, steepening, etc, waves eventually break, usually when wave height H = 0.8D
Breaking waves
Types of breaking waves
Email: steven.wojtal@oberlin.edu
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