Shapes of water waves
If L>1.73 cm or T>0.1 sec, gravity is the primary restoring force for water waves
Gravity causes the shapes of water waves to vary with relative sizes of wave height H & wavelength L
When H/L is small, wave form resembles a sine curve
When H/L is large, wave crests become more pointed & wave takes a shape called a trochoid
H/L ratio, called the wave steepness, correlates with wave stability
- When H/L<1/7 & crest angle > 120°, wave is stable
- When H/L = 1/7 and crest angle = 120°, wave is unstable & breaks