Wave generation
Most waves generated by frictional drag of wind
Small fraction of wind energy transferred into drift currents; most energy goes into buckling the surface
Wind then generates different pressure on windward & leeward sides of buckles, causing buckles to grow into waves & then causing waves to move
Energy transferred into water as waves depends on
- Wind speed
- Consistency of wind direction
- Duration - how long consistent wind blows
- Fetch - maximum length of open water over which constant wind blows