Pauly's dishes up tasty pizza

Pauly's East Coast Pizza is the latest incarnation of 38 South Main St., which was once Annie's, and then Annetta's, New York Style Pizza. It is the place to go in Oberlin when one wants a single slice of pizza. But Pauly's is not just another pizza joint.

We'll start with the bad news: the service leaves something to be desired. There are serious staffing issues that need to be addressed. At the normal dinner shift there was a single employee waiting the tables, as well as serving and preparing food. There were another one or two employees milling about but they didn't seem to be doing very much. The lone waiter did, however, apologize for the lack of service.

The atmosphere in Pauly's is certainly a step above that of Annetta's. The interior, for instance, has been redone completely. Comfortable booths and chairs rest on a tasteful carpet. The walls and ceiling have been painted in attractive greens and light browns.

The food at Pauly's is also better than what has been produced at 38 South Main St. in the past. The restaurant has been advertised as specializing in "pasta, subs and pizza" and the advertisements do not lie. They certainly have the pasta down. The tomato-cream vodka sauce - made to any degree of spiciness - tastes truly homemade. And while the portions aren't quite as gargantuan as those served down the street at the Mandarin, they are decent for what you pay (pasta dishes range from $5 to$9). The appetizers were also well-priced for the portions, ranging from $1 to $6. Pauly's bruschetta is quite fine, served as a cold, spiced tomato-only "salsa" on freshly toasted bread. The hot-cold dichotomy works very well, though you need to eat it quickly to experience that effect. The jalapeno poppers were also decent in all respects.

To excite those hard-core East-coasters once more, Pauly's has finally introduced cheese steaks as they should be to Oberlin. Ignore the menu's description, which includes American cheese on the steak: the chefs use provolone, in true South Philly style. The peppers and onions are grilled to perfection and are sliced thickly, as is the steak. The prices for these sandwiches are all right around $4. Pauly's has not forgotten the salad lovers, either. There are two large salads offered, both for about $5.

How's the pizza, you ask? It is served by the slice for $1, and the portions are as huge as Annie's used to serve. There are two pizza sizes: medium and large, priced at $7 and $9, respectively. Toppings run somewhat pricey, however. There are specialty pizzas as well, which might encompass your favorite topping combo. These run anywhere from $9 to $14, depending on size and type. The pizza is also impressive, in that home-town pizza joint sort of way. Though generic, the pizza is tasty and hearty. Most importantly, the crust, even when only ordering a single slice, is done perfectly. It tastes fine and does not take up half of the slice.

All things considered - and provided the service improves - Pauly's East Coast receives three out of four chef hats, on the Oberlin Restaurant scale.

When the moon hits your eye: Customers enjoy the new menu of Pauly's East Coast Pizza. (photo by Areca Treon)