Amidst a sea of stiff Wranglers and faded heavy metal t-shirts works Maggie Chaney, owner of Oberlin's vintage clothing store, The Dream Closet.
During a brief tour, she weaved through racks of polyester shirts and Levi's corduroys, confidently explaining the fickle fashion sense of vintage clothing shoppers.
With the relatively recent resurgence of vintage dressing, Chaney opened The Dream Closet at the right time. According to Chaney, vintage dressers rarely do so from head to toe, instead combining vintage styles subtly with modern ones.
She said, "A successful vintage dresser is someone who likes what they're wearing. Their clothing fits well, and they feel like they look good in it. You should probably buy something if you put it on and love it, because in the world of vintage clothing, you might not find it again."
Chaney displayed confidence in a business she knows as well as anyone. Although she didn't open The Dream Closet until June 1998, she previously worked for three years sending vintage clothing from her native Ohio to fashionable East Coast boutiques. With hardly any competition for clothing stores within Oberlin, Chaney jumped at the opportunity of opening her own business. "Being familiar with the community of Oberlin, I just thought 'why hasn't anyone else done this?'" she said.
The career move proved to be profitable. "Business is good," Chaney said, adding, "Much better when the students are here."
She admits that the key to success in the clothing business is recognition of the customer base and catering to it accordingly. Chaney hasn't noticed if The Dream Closet attracts more men or women, but stresses that she has clothes to outfit both. "We're concentrating equally on men and women. Men's business started slowly, but has expanded. Most vintage clothing stores cater to women and we noticed this."
In order to stay abreast of up-to-the-minute trends, Chaney frequently uses the internet to scan fashion scenes in New York, San Francisco and Japan. "You really have to, because otherwise, it can be a three or four year time span before something hot becomes accepted."
Both jeans and corduroys are currently selling very well to both women and men. "Not the cords your grandfather would wear, either", she said, smiling. "Sweaters are definitely hot too, as are rock t-shirts, especially from the 1980s."
Chaney asserts that The Dream Closet attracts shoppers ages 15-30. "I think we attract individuals, those who don't like cookie-cutter, mall type dressing. You know, creative types - people with an edge."
These creative types are also those who she hires to do her "picking," a practice of combing thrift stores and yard sales for fashionable vintage clothing and passing it on to be sold at a higher price. Chaney hires primarily people in their 20s in both Dayton and Columbus. The seemingly economic immorality of the issue does not seem to concern her. To potential naysayers, she said, "What I'd like people to know is that vintage clothing is a limited resource."
The majority of The Dream Closet's non-picked stock comes via estate sales. With these two combined sources, Chaney feels confident she can find almost any desirable vintage item. "It might take some time, but I can probably get it for you," she said.
With The Dream Closet appearing to be long term mainstay in downtown Oberlin, tight Wranglers and Guns 'n Roses t-shirts may be here to stay.
Something old. . .: Vintage shop owner Maggie Chaney posed in front of her eclectic collection of clothing. (photo by Pauline Shapiro)
Copyright © 1999, The Oberlin Review.
Volume 128, Number 6, October 8, 1999
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